Bell Boots

Shop bell boots for horses that protect what matters most: the coronary band, heel bulbs, and front shoes your horse depends on every ride. Whether your horse has a tendency to overreach, wears a corrective shoeing setup, or simply goes hard in turnout, a well-fitted pair of bell boots is one of the smartest investments in your tack trunk. We carry pull-on rubber styles that stay put through mud, water, and twelve-hour turnout sessions,
alongside hook-and-loop designs that make quick tacking up a reality when your schedule is tight.

Bell boots aren't a one-size-fits-all item, and we take that seriously. The right fit depends on your horse's hoof circumference at the widest point of the coronary band — not the height of the boot, and not the horse's overall size. Warmbloods and stocky Quarter Horses with wide, round hooves often need a size up from what their height would suggest, while refined Thoroughbreds and Arabians with narrower feet typically run true to size. When in doubt, size up for turnout (where you want maximum shoe coverage) and go snugger for arena work (where you want a close fit that won't flap or twist).

Pull-on rubber bell boots are the gold standard for turnout and wet conditions as they can't be stepped on and pulled off by a pasture mate, and the rubber seals out moisture better than hook-and-loop styles. For riders who switch bell boots on and off multiple times a day between schooling sessions, a no-turn Velcro design saves your hands and your patience. The "no-turn" feature, a small tab or ridge at the back of the boot,
keeps the boot from rotating on the hoof during work, so your horse's heels stay protected regardless of how animated the warm-up gets.

A good bell boot should sit low enough at the back to cover the full heel bulb when the horse is standing on flat ground, with enough room to slip two fingers between the top edge and the pastern. Too tight, and you risk rubs and restricted circulation. Too loose, and your horse can step on the trailing edge and pull the boot — or worse, trip. Check the fit after every few rides: rubber expands in heat and contracts in cold, and a boot that fit
perfectly in October may feel different come July. Clean hooves before putting boots on; trapped grit under rubber acts like sandpaper on sensitive skin.

Frequently Asked Questions

What size bell boots does my horse need?
Measure the circumference of your horse's front hoof at its widest point (right at the coronary band where hoof wall meets hairline) . Most adult riding horses fit a Medium (12–13 inch circumference), but stocky breeds like Quarter Horses and Warmbloods often need a Large. If you're between sizes, size up for turnout boots and stay true for pull-on performance boots, which stretch slightly over the hoof. Always check the manufacturer's
specific size chart, as sizing varies by brand.

Do bell boots go on the front or back hooves?
Bell boots are almost always used on the front hooves. The reason is mechanical: when a horse overreaches, the hind hoof swings forward and strikes the back of the front foot,  specifically the heel bulbs and coronary band. The bell boot forms a protective cover over exactly that area. In rare cases where a horse has an unusual interference pattern, a veterinarian or farrier may recommend hind bell boots, but this is the exception rather
than the rule.

Can I leave bell boots on my horse 24/7?
It's not ideal. Keeping bell boots on around the clock, especially in humid climates or wet paddocks, traps moisture against the hoof and pastern, creating conditions favorable for thrush and bacterial skin infections. For horses that genuinely need round-the-clock protection (such as those with very expensive shoeing jobs or chronic overreach issues), check hooves daily and give the feet several hours of air each day. For most horses,
boots during turnout and exercise, then off for the overnight, is the right balance.

How do I know if my horse's bell boots are rubbing?
Run your hand around the pastern and coronary band after removing the boots. Warmth, redness, hair loss, or small sores are all signs of friction. A boot that twists during work creates uneven pressure and is the most common cause of rubs.  Look for a no-turn style if this keeps happening. Keeping the hoof and pastern clean before booting, and making sure the boot sits flat rather than puckered at the top edge, will prevent the vast
majority of rub issues.